Well I was armed with a camera in hand, a couple of loafs of bread, some cold drinks and a personal bodyguard to go and test out my new skills in HDR photography at one of the most elusive old homes in Maputo.
There are many of the opinion that I am well crazy to even dare step over the threshold of this buildings steps as many who have tried have been robbed or gotten themselves into a bit of trouble, but I was adamant to at least give it a try.
So here's my tribute to Vila Algarve. I am a very lucky girl indeed to have experienced it on none other than the day of peace and reconciliation in Mozambique. Plus, I can report I left in tact, and a few homeless people do have some food for a day.
Special thanks goes to Jaime, who was happy to be crazy enough with me and act as my bodyguard and translator then also to wikipedia, the club of Mozambique and Jane Flood for all the information on the history of this building.
It is said that a guidebook from the 1930's has a photo of this grand old lady with the caption "one of the grandest houses in Lourenco Marques", but unfortunately today and for the past decade it has been standing empty (yet occupied).
During the colonial period it was used by the Portuguese Secret Police (Policia Internacional da Defesa do Estado, or PIDE) as a headquarters and prison where they tortured people that struggled against colonial control.
As this building is occupied by countless homeless people and a few drug infused individuals I wasn't able to explore into the depths of this building which run underground. It is said that the basement walls are splattered with the blood of various political prisoners and that both the horrific history of this building and the ghosts that roam it at night is the reason that many a prospective tenant have been scared away.
The internationally acclaimed artist Malangatana Valente and the poet Jose Craveirinha spend some of their days here as political prisoners, along with many other detainees most of which are today famous for being freedom fighters for Mozambique's Independence from Portugal, specifically from the liberation movement FRELIMO, who is today's ruling party.
After Mozambique's Independence it came into the guardianship of the Mozambican Lawyers Association. Sadly until today it has not been restored to its former grand glory as you can clearly see even in its state of utter decay. All you need to do is look at the mostly intact tiles which date back to the 1930's when it was built. The tiles are from the famous Azulejo factories in northern Portugal.
There has been various rumours that the Ministry of Army Veterans plan to renovate the building and turn it into a Museum of Resistance to Portuguese Colonialism, but then also that it will one day be turned into a small boutique hotel. I for one really hope that it doesn't become a hotel as I do think the uniqueness of the story and the building will be lost when it is occupied by modern furnishings.
This really is one that the people shouldn't forget as it is a very unique part of Mozambican history.
Lets hope the story of the ghosts is true and that they keep any interest in silly business other than the current drugs and poverty, or a great museum that will do it justice in this building well at bay.
Have just been through this fascinating building. It has been cleaned up but is still a ruin and unoccupied by anyone. I was able to roam through the forlorn building at will, invited in by a guard at the gate who saw me taking pictures from a distance. I had no idea of its dark history before I went in. I hope one day it will be a museum and will be able to be appreciated by people as more than a ruin.
ReplyDeleteIn 1972 I was I was working on a English ship after a night ashore I missed the ship as it sailed early, normally one would be put in a hotel then fly to rejoin the ship at ones own cost,I contacted the ships agent and was told I would be picked up a car arrived I got in the backseat a man in the front turned around with a gun in his hand told me not to anything stupid or he would shoot me I was taken to Vila Algarve they had taken my details then I was taken to Machova prison not a nice place I remember at night drums being played and other nights chanting ,I was taken back to the Vila Algarve two more times there were some horrible things happened in that place in the waiting room which was full some men their shirts ripped on their backs whale marks standing up on their backs where they had been beaten or tortured their eyes were standing out with fear I was tried in the court in the same building and had to pay a fine I don't know what for they didn't speak much English I was taken to the airport and caught a plane to Beira to join my ship but they wanted to lock me up again until the ship was leaving but the ships agent argued with them and I was allowed back on my ship but the Portuguese authority put a soldier at the bottom of the gangway and was told to shoot me if I came ashore and I was banned from the country I don't know why perhaps because of the peoples war and me mixing socially with African people I may have been seen as a threat ,well that my little story about Vila Algarv .
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